A Night At Abu Jifan Fort

Abu Jifan Fort came on to my radar earlier last year, in March to be exact, via a random conversation with a random person - there are a lot of random people in Saudi, so such conversations are not that surprising really.  He mentioned there was a fort down near Al Kharj, though he had no idea where.  So I turned to Google to see if, maybe, it was a known landmark, though not too hopeful of a result as Saudi was still largely under-mapped.  But to my surprise, there it was in the middle of the desert, literally, with no access to it at all.

A closer inspection of Google maps identified a road part way and a run of power lines passing nearby.  Where there are power lines there must be a track, of sorts.  So Hubster was advised to load the hired 4WD and some firewood while I stocked the chilly bin with food and the back seat with our sleeping bags because we intended to camp the night.

We drove down toward Al Kharj and turned eastwards after refuelling with gas. Having earlier identified two possible options for reaching our destination it was time to figure out which route would work best for us.  Waiting till we got closer to the desert to make this decision was done for two reasons.

One, given the amount of development that is taking place in this country, Google cannot always be completely relied on for route planning.  Sometimes you turn up and there's a road where the written instuctions say there shouldn't be.  Other times where there should be a road you actually find yourself at the edge of the desert with car tracks angling off in all directions into the distance.  It can be a bit freaky leaving the saftey of solid tarmac for the unkown desert.  Some days you turn up and find someone has built an apartment block.  Laying eyes is alwasys best when heading off exploring in Saudi, especially when you don't really know where you're going.

And Two, the man I married had, yet again, been paying absolutely no attention to any route suggestions I had been passing on to him previous to leaving home.  This fact was borne out when, as we passed through our compound gate he said, 'Which way?'  I sighed, somewhat exasperated, knowing it was going to be one of those days when he wasn't really looking forward to this trip, he was simply humouring me.  I also knew that if this fort visit turned out to be worthwhile, he'd be singng it's praises for weeks. My fingers were crossed for praise singing and my exasperation was put on the back burner as he was pointed in the right direction, but honestly, there are times when I think that if I didn't need him to drive, I wouldn't take him at all!

We decided sticking to the ashphalt for as long as possible was the best idea so headed off to the road with the power lines.  We followed that till it came to the end, then we were on our own.  The wadi that greeted us was a little rocky, and we set about finding a way through it in the general direction of the Fort.  This was definitely a four wheel drive expedition as the route became rougher the further we went and did not always follow an obviously marked trail - at least we couldn't find it.  Hubster had to get out of the vehicle a couple of times to assess whether we would make it over a rocky incline or two.  I was grateful he came along for some driving, when it comes to navigating through rough terrain he has more balls than me, (figuratively that is...OK, and literally).

We eventually came across a graded track of sorts that seemed to start in the middle of nowhere for no particular reason.  Although it was graded, it was also steep, narrow - the vehicle just fit through - and rock-strewn, so a bit of care was required as we wormed our way up it.

Once through this escarpment the land leveled out and was much easier to drive.  We checked our bearings and set off, once again, in the general direction of the fort.   Finding a relatively well used track we followed it and found ourselves at the base of some low lying hillocks with the depressions of old wells.  The faded track split in two and we decided to take the one that disappeared into a nearby wadi.  As we rounded the bend we were greeted by the sight of the fort sitting solitary above the wadi bed.

As we drove nearer we were quiet with our own thoughts - mostly questions on my part.  Why had the fort been abandoned? Who uses it now?  Who used it then?  What was it like to live here?

The afternoon was late and Hubster was hankering for food so we decided to set up a permanent camp in the wadi  near the wells and get a fire started with tea on the boil.  There was plenty of greenery (I prefer a bit of foliage for toileting purposes - we might be married but there are some things you just don't want to know, right?) and we could fossick for extra firewood.  Tomorrow we would get an early start to explore the fort.



Our camps are very basic setups.  Chairs to sit on, carpets to rest on and, later in the night, to spread our sleeping bags on and a fire to cook our steak over.  What more do you need?  As we don't own a tent, there is not much option for any other kind of set up.  We did try sleeping in the back of a vehicle once, but really, hailing from the 'a bit large' brigade, there is only room for one of us comfortably.

To make the ground more comfortable we also have an extra sleeping blanket that we lay on top of the carpets, under our sleeping bags.  To date we have not been hassled by dust storms, wildlife or rabid dogs, although we did find a scorpion nestled under our sleeping blanket once.  Hubster got such a shock he shooed it off quick smart into nearby desert grasses....I was like, 'What did you do that for? I wanted to take a photo of it'.  He realized that maybe he had over-reacted.  'We could go look for it', he says.  'Yeah right, lets search for a scared critter in long grass, away you go, mug' (Kiwi word for blockhead).  Mr Scorpion did not become photographic famous that day.

Word is that the name Abu Jifan refers to this very wadi, above which the fort sits, and the wells dug into it that have offered travellers a respite from the long days of traversing the desert in both Islamic and pre-Islamic periods.  The wells still have water in them today.

In 1864, foreign explorers wrote about two routes that passed by Abu Jifan -  one that connected Riyadh to Hofuf, a major east-west thoroughfare to the gulf apparently, and one that linked Wadi Dawasir and Sulayal to Hofuf.  It is possible there were more routes from this spot that locals used but were not confirmed by early European visitors, which sounds reasonable given it is thought that the wells date back to the Bronze Age, as judged, so I read, by the masonry lining them - which means the wells are quite old.

Rumour has it that when the modern Saudi Arabian road network was initially being drawn up there were plans to maintain this historic route as a main highway, so part the cutting we came up was one of the first pieces of road construction in Saudi Arabia.   But a change of plans meant that the road went nowhere near the fort, hence it sitting all alone in the middle of the desert.

From the main entrance the fort looked a little forlorn and worse for wear. The gate was broken, the old trespass sign was almost unreadable, though on the otherside of the driveway was what looked to be a perfectly new sign declaring Abu Jifan to be a palace.

An guard post and in the distance a lookout

View to the fort from a lookout, with a guard post visible in front of the fort.

The fort is not as old as the wells that serve it.  Apparently the official purpose of the fort was to protect the travel route, and remnants of old guard outposts can be found at each end of the track that runs in front of the fort, while further out are what appear to be lookout posts.  Before the discovery of oil, the only money coming in for the country was through charges to pilgrims and traveling caravans and, as this was a main route and watering hole to and from Mecca and the Gulf, it seems reasonable to build a collection point along it, though how long ago, and whether or not this fort was erected specifically for that purpose, I can't say.

I read somewhere that the fort was used in the 1950's by the National Guard, though I can't confirm that either.  About the only thing I do know is that the sign out front claims the fort was protected as an archeological site by which ever King was on the throne in 1972. Abu Jifan became famous in the history of modern Saudi because the original King, Abdulaziz, stopped at the wells on his way to Riyadh in 1902 to claim back his heritage.                                            

Abu Jifan is apparently admininstered by the Ministry of Antiquities and Museums who rebuilt it around 2007, presumably to be used as a tourist spot.  It has subsequently been abandoned for reasons unknown, which I have to say actually makes it look kind of cool for we romantics or highly imaginative types.  You know what I mean, imagine telling camp fire stories around a lonely, hard to reach abandoned fort next to ancient wells - the tales you could tell and the visions you could conjure up in the minds of the impressionable of camels and dust weary travelers, the sounds and the smells of pulling up water and setting up camp and preparing for battle - that kind of thing.

The visions that met us as we walked beneath the entry arch to the fort proper spoke of glorious plans that had come to a halt. Tagging decorated the walls and the doorways were dark, almost pleading to be lit up again with life and love.  We went from room to room wondering what it would have been like to be posted here.  The recent refurbhisment meant that along with the traditional fire hearth in each room, there were also power points.  The central courtyard is dominated by a concrete base that was obviously some unfinished designer vision.

The mosque with it's traditionally built ceiling was lit only by the sunlight as it half heartedly crossed the threshold through the door we had opened, preferring to shine its full brilliance outside.  Other people had obviously found the place quite intriguing and had stayed for a lengthy period judging by the cold ash of a fire in the middle of the mosque.

The silence at the fort was deafening as we looked out between the rooftop parapets to the wadi beyond.  I did wonder who will maintain this fort into the future.  Apart from the fact it doesn't seem to be a tourist stop, the skills required to upkeep an adobe structure are fast disappearing in this country as ongoing construction favours concrete.  Historic adobe buildings deteriorate - that is their nature.  The only blessing Saudi has is that it doesn't rain here much. But even slow decay will eventually lead to collapse for this abandoned palace unless there is a maintainence plan in place.

We left the fort to take a look at the surrounding hills and didn't have to go far to find what looked to be the remnants of an old village forged out of desert rocks.  The stones were piled into squares that could only be dwellings - in some it was easy to identify what appeared to be entry ways and fireplaces (to my non-archeologically trained, possibly imaginative eye).  We spent a bit of time pcituring how harsh it would have been living here.  Makes me glad of my brick and mortared home.  Oh the quandries of balancing the love of modern life with the desire to not forget history.

We spent a bit of time exploring the area and then it was time to figure out how to get home.  It is not necessary to retrace our steps driving out the way we came in.  This took a bit of explaining to The One Wth No Ears for reasons mentioned at the beginning of this post.  We headed toward the row of power lines and simply followed them all the way out to Khurais Road.  It was easy peesy.  I have to say, I'm glad we chose the exciting way in to Abu Jifan and, because it was getting late, I was just as grateful there was an easy way out.  And by the way, praise singing is long and loud when our trip to Abu Jifan is mentioned.

Location of Abu Jifan



For a little more detail:

Red is the way we went in, Blue is the way we came out.

I hope you enjoy your trek to Abu Jifan Fort if you chose to take it.



Ka Kite,
Kiwi

Stunned Falcons, Layla Lakes and Water.

The picture is beautiful.  A blue water lake fringed with green grasses and a jet boat pulling a water skier.  If that is in Saudi we need to go find it, I said to Hubster. So Google was searched and searched again for the location of Layla Lakes.

We took Mr UK with us on this trip.  He was on a short stint back in Riyadh and loves road tripping with us.  Either that or he didn't have a better offer this particular weekend.

We set off quite early because our first stop was just south of Riyadh to watch a falcon display in the desert.  There were Ooooo's and Ahhh's as the birds were carried out on their perches and displayed.  Then Oooo's and Ohhhh's as the live bait was bought out and released into the air for a raptor type breakfast.

Mr UK and the rest of the group were impressed with all falcon related activity and the falcon handler was a wealth of information.  The birds displaying their speed, grace and aggression as they swooped in on their prey in the brilliant blue sky, a perfect backdrop to the brick red dunes on a crisp but clear autumn morning, was spectacular to watch.

The sight was only marred by all the rubbish sprinkled over the desert. If someone could please invent biodegradable plastic bags - and cheap ones because Saudi businesses won't buy them otherwise - that would be great.   (And I'm looking at SABIC here - you great massive corporation of plastic related inventiveness.  Take up the challenge for your country if not the world and create truly safe, biodegradable plastic bags!  Either that or sponsor nationwide education on how to put rubbish in bins, preferably in all languages of those who live in the country because, lets face it, its not just resident Arabs throwing their shit around the countryside. Or sponsor the supply of reusable canvas bags in supermarkets while training the grocery packers on the concept of ”Less plastic, Better Environment."  PS - I know someone happy to spread a Two Bag Rubbish Revolution message if you'd like to sign him up).

The ducks who made a dash from their open cage narrowly escaped becoming a mid-morning falcon snack.  We watched with mounting tension and nervous chuckles as one escapee waddled up the dune past a falcon resting in the sand seemingly oblivious to the imminent danger, while the falcon, looking on in total disbelief at the sight of the bird shuffling through the sand in front of him, seemed stunned into inaction.

We're out....RUUUUUNNNNN!

Falcon: What the......?
Duck:  Got to escape, got to escape...puff, puff, pant, pant.

Falcon:  Ya shittin me...

Falcon:  (Confused, stunned, falcon face)

Falcon:  (Doing a double take)  (Contemplating action)
Duck:  Got to escape, got to escape....I'm at the toooooppp!!!

Falcon:  *Sigh*...doing nothing is making me look bad.
I have to go check this idiot out.

Falcon:  Hey duck
Duck:  Got to escape, got to escape

Falcon: From? (raised eyebrow look)
Duck: (realizing this is a Falcon) ARRRRGGGGGGGHHH

Duck:  please don't kill me, please don't kill me

Falcon: Hmmmmmm...(pacing, thinking like)

Today's your lucky day duck.
Get outta here before the Falcon man sticks you back in the cage

.

The Falcon man caught the duck and put it back in the cage.  We asked why the Falcon didn't seem interested in ripping the duck to pieces.  Probably, he said, because the duck was too big.  The birds won't take on large prey if they don't have to because of the risk of damaging a wing.  Wing damage is not good for a hunting bird.

A sigh of relief was breathed for the duck that this Falcon had already eaten.  This group was not into totally unnecessary blood letting.


To top off the morning, everyone who felt inclined got to hold a falcon. Or rather, the Falcon got to hold them.  The claws on these birds are quite large and very sharp.  Leather gear is a necessary accessory for this photo opportunity, as is not minding holding bits of shredded pigeon - presumably an incentive to keep a falcon steady and quiet for the photo shoot.

After a spot of qahwah, a few more photos and a chinwag with fellow early morning Falcon watchers, it was time for us to head out of town, further south, to our intended destination of Layla.

Layla is about 300km's from Riyadh.  It wasn't so much to the township we were heading as to the lakes outside of it.  According to my research there were 15 lakes in all, some of a very large size.  Having unearthed a map on Google we headed toward the pin drop on my phone, and yes, having an almost direct route to our destination felt like I was cheating on this expedition.  We are so used to traversing this country almost mapless.

Although our early exploits in the desert had taken place in the cool of the morning, we arrived in Layla in the hottest part of the day.  Possibly not the best planned timing but then I was driven by this picture of water based sports...

Source

Yes this is Layla lakes only a few short decades ago.

On the other side of town we turned onto a side road at the end of which was a rather long fence, slightly old, and a gate, slightly ajar.  The vehicle was parked and we walked through to see what could be seen.

Topping the Saudi version of a country fence - sand piled into banks by a digger all along a boundary line - a squeal of excitement passed my lips. The boys clambered up to see what brought on such uncharacteristic behavior.  

Ummmm....errrrrr.  

Is that someone's house?

It looks a bit wrecked.

Where's the water? 

Just a few of the comments being made by my weekend travel companions about the deserted buildings we were looking at.  They were confused.  I was excited.  We were in the right place.  This was the reputedly never opened Layla Lakes Resort, built when the lakes were a weekend respite destination from the heat of the desert.

Now the lakes are dry sinkholes -  geological marvels of little use to the man who spent a fortune erecting the nearby retreat.  The depleting of the country's water table sank the resort as the water in the nearby lakes disappeared before his eyes.

We stood at the edge of the now dry lake beds  They are rather large.  So large in fact, we didn't make our way around them - the heat beat us back.  We looked for ways to walk into the bottom of the deeper hole - the water must have bubbled up from some cavity in the ground and that would have been a great find - but there was no easy trail.  Part of a natural bridge between two of the deeper lake's had caved in as well, suggesting a search in that area might be a risky adventure.  The pigeons we disturbed were easily flying in circles in the shade of the deep wells, teasing us with our clumsy efforts. 

The small formations on the side of the big lake, shaped like cups that one could imagine making excellent cascades as water poured over them or making homes for fresh water critters, and the much larger ball and boulder shapes making up the sides of the deeper lakes are apparently of significant geological interest - a Saudi Caves article has more information for you geologically inclined readers who would like to find out more about this.  All I know is the formations are slowly, but surely, turning to dust.

Though this location can be marked off as something interesting we visited in Saudi, it was a sad sight not just because of the haunted looking buildings.  Saudi has a major water crisis that I'm not sure everyone in top positions has been appropriately addressing in their rush to build new homes and expand their cities.  And for people who hail from the desert the Gen Y and Z populous don't seem to have much of a water conservation mindset.  Water is wasted everywhere.  Drivers can be seen early in the morning washing sponsor cars every day, I've watched maids run water in the kitchens cleaning the dust from between the drupelets of blackberries till the fruit practically shines - a completely unnecessary exercise if you ask me.  And it is possible to stroll past water leaking on to the road from a hidden but obviously broken pipe for days in Riyadh.  In saying all that  though, I have to admit, as I look out at my well watered compound residence with its green trees, lovely swimming pool and quaint but unnecessary rockery water feature, my choice of home probably isn't helping the water situation much.

 

Rumour has it that the guys responsible for this country's watery plight are now playing a 'Steal from Peter to save Paul' strategy, which basically means locations in Saudi that still have sufficient underground water for their local population, like Al Ula for example, are being 'encouraged' with lots of wheeling and dealing, much to the disgust of the local residents, many of whom are small plot family farmers and gardeners, to send their precious resource to other areas of the country marked for rapid expansion.  Not exactly a long term strategy and one can easily envisage Al Ula winding up with sinkholes like Layla Lakes and Al Kharj (whose sinkholes you can read about in this post Al Kharj and the Eyes of Najma).

We left Layla Lakes contemplative of the future of this country and its drive to rapid modernization and growth wondering if it was all really worth it if such action is bleeding the country dry.  One day, perhaps like the falcon and the Layla Lakes resort owner, the country will be left stunned at how it buggered its water supplies up because of their early arrogant lack of concern for its limits.

Ka Kite,
Kiwi

The New Improved Princess Souq

The Princess Souq has been moved and with its relocation has come a major upgrade.  Gone are the low ceiling and piece meal materials of wood, plastic corrugated roofing, canvas throw overs and rotting carpet that used to hold the old, dark, dank and dirty princess souq together.  The new location of princess souq, part of what is officially called the New ibn Qasim Market, is held up with high metal frames covered with large white sunshades and underfoot is a lovely patio type tiled floor.  We thought the move might hike the prices, but no, you can still buy garish gowns for next to nothing at the Princess Souq.

The other thing that seems to have been cleaned up at the new location is the D&D's (aka Dirty and Disgusting men).  You can read all about them in my previous Princess Souq post.  We spent a hassle free morning at the souq when I went with a couple of friends.  That isn't to say there aren't still men, but they seem reasonably sane and relatively capable of normal interaction with women.  And they were happy to go on my little Weehee (was meant to be woohoo, but really, it didn't come out that way) video.



The clothes are still hung in racks packed closely together so you feel like you're moving through an ocean channel of frills, tulle, silk and satin.  And that old second hand smell can still be caught when you are deep into the rows of hangers, reminding you that your purchase will likely need a good wash or dry clean when you get it home.  And when you pull a gown off the rack to assess it more closely, chances are high that baubles, ruffles and and diamantes will be present in excess.

The ladies found themselves a few goodies.  I just took photos.  Some gowns actually look quite reasonable in an overstated way and for less than 40 Riyals you could find yourself a gown or two.

Mrs B happy browsing.

It can be a fun rushing over to assess the costume discovered with calls of 'Come and look at this' and 'OMG - this can't be for real' to 'Wow, what a bargain.'  Some women head down to the souq on a very regular basis.  I am not one of them.  Hailing from the shorts or jeans with t-shirt brigade I don't have a lot of call for gowns so will go on the odd occasion if I'm feeling particularly bored, want to buy some princess dresses for the granddaughters or there is a nice lunch somewhere afterwards.

The new princess souq is south of the south western ring road.  One lady, in giving instructions, said it was just down the road from the old souq.  It's actually down the road, under the bridge, Turn left then, with the concrete works on the horizon, turn right and then.....oh never mind, here's a map.  Google co-ordinates are 24.568012, 46.745333.

Location of the New Princess Souq, Riyadh



Ka Kite,
Kiwi

Karate In Riyadh

Karate is alive and kicking in Riyadh. (That's a terrible pun, I know).  We have bloke come to our compound twice a week to give lessons to kids.  Apparently he has to come to the compound because, in Saudi Arabia, girls aren't allowed to join 'official' Karate clubs - and a number of girls here love their karate.

Because girls aren't recognized in the sport in Saudi, any belt levels they are tested for at our karate classes cannot be officially registered through the clubs here. The boys can be.  The girls can't.  The best our instructor can do for the girls is to print up a certificate they can hang on their wall.  Should they ever leave the country and join a karate club, it is highly likely their level will not be recognized, unless the karate club is extremely understanding, so it may be back to square one for the girls.  Initially when I was told this, I bristled a little.  But then I figured that the kids are just happy doing karate and passing tests, so chill out Kiwi!  Of course, should someone with a bit of influence read this blog maybe they could make it their mission to change this situation for karate kicking females - or am I dreaming again?



Hubster and our son used to do Karate many years ago.  They were encouraged to join by our neighbor who was into karate in a big way - world tournaments and all that, along with his wife and daughters.  They even have their own dojo (aka club).  You can check it out at Kyonkushin Karate, North Harbour Training Center.  One day we were invited to a party at their place when a couple of young men, who had come as tag alongs (as in they were invited by a guest, not the host), decided to try and steal things from the house.  The dimwits didn't realize it was a karate club party and that The Neighbor was the best of them all.  When their dastardly deeds were discovered, they were given a very rapid, thrown down the stairs type of exit.

Maybe that's what scares the men in Saudi - their women being perfectly capable of giving them rapid exits should they be displeased with  them in any way.  Someone should explain that karate isn't just about the ability to defend yourself, though that does come in handy should a husband decide to flout Saudi's recently introduced domestic violence law and resort instead to the dated, apparently religiously sanctioned, practice of wife beating.  Karate also improves fitness, co-ordination, flexibility and weight control.  According to Kreimers Karate, the sport is particularly useful for women because "it develops the lower abdomen, hips and inner thighs; areas which produce a youthful feminine figure for women of all ages. After childbirth in particular, these areas are stretched and weakened; [Karate] training is ideal to restore muscle tone for health as well as appearance."

Not forgetting the mental benefits which include improved concentration, improved confidence and sel-esteem.  According to GKR Karate, it is "an environment that promotes respect and courtesy.  It teaches a student to become more disciplined, more patient within themselves, and encourages humility above ego." (I know what you're thinking Fellow Saudi Expats - Perhaps all Saudi's should be sent to karate class!)
   
Anyway, when the grandchildren were here in Riyadh, they loved the karate.  The karate teacher got the kids to learn karta's, to kick a mattress, or hand pads.  And only occasionally, each other.  We spoke to the Ozzie Branch of grand kids the other day and they have joined a karate club in Brisbane.  And down in NZ another grandson does Kung Fu twice a week and loves it.

I googled "karate clubs" in Riyadh to see how many are out there.  There weren't as many as I expected.  Well, they aren't advertising themselves via Google anyways.  Here's what I came up with:

1. The Mortal Kombat Karate Association, Inc. (MKKAI) of Riyadh, under Master Samuel Dela Cruz is conveniently located at Power House Dojo Gym, Batha near the Postal Office. Their contact numbers, according to the website, are 0502048832 or 0503237252 and their e-mail address is mkkai_ksa@yahoo.com


2. International Karate Center, Middle East, under Instructor: Mohammed Saad Alkahtani is in Sodair St.Shoubra.  Dojo Phone (according to the directory I found them in) is: 966 505-292385, Dojo Fax:961 267-665 Ext. 108 Dojo Email: kahtani2003@gmail.com 


3. Funakoshi Shotokan Karate-Do NR Association  - all I cold find was their Facebook page, so if you can find more info, feel free to pass it along.


4. My Gym is apparently starting Karate classes for kids. 


5. Batang Pinoy Karate Club, Riyadh KSAthis is another Facebook page, but it has pictures of girls, probably because it also says it's a private club.

I have no idea if these places offer karate at their premises for both genders because, at the time of writing, I haven't called them to find out, lax of me, I know, but I have to say, with the exception of My Gym, I'd be surprised if they do.

Apparently the new Ladies Only sport complex in Dammam offers karate for women, which is not one bit of use for us women in Riyadh but, hei aha, it's a start.  If you know of any other places where girls and boys and women can do karate in Riyadh, please let me know.   After all, sharing is caring.

Ka Kite,
Kiwi 

Bowling At The Riyadh Ritz.

There aren't many places in Riyadh where women can go bowling when the urge strikes.  A couple of the larger compounds have bowling alleys, but if don't know anyone to let you in, then those locations are off limits.  Previously, there were only two non-compound bowling alleys where women could bowl in Riyadh.  One was in UBC, just off Al Maadha St that we have been to a few times.  The other was at Al Khozarma Hotel whose alley we haven't tried yet, largely because you need to book out the the whole place to use it.  Not so long ago, a group of friends decided we would try the new arrival to Riyadh's bowling scene - the Ritz Carlton's Strike Alley.

As this was a ladies only outing, we rang to find out what days women are allowed (Tuesdays and Saturdays are women only) and then planned a visit.   Apparently there is a family day for bowling at the Ritz but I forgot to ask which day that was.

Getting to the bowling alley required first having coffee and cake.  Unfortunately, the Riyadh Ritz High Tea left a lot to be desired.  We were very impressed, however, when we walked into their bowling alley.  It's a large, spacious area with floor to ceiling photo's of bowling pins, just in case you don't get the fact it's a bowling alley.  There's a dry-bar at the back (which means no alcohol given this is Saudi Arabia) where you can order snacks and drinks, and there is sufficient space between the bar and the lanes to sit and relax in the plush armchairs.  If you get sick of bowling there's also a billiard table and a TV.

 There are six lanes all together and on a weekday afternoon, there was only one other lane being used by a couple of Saudi girls.  Being the ladies only time, abaya's were quickly removed so we could get down to bowling business.  A lot of hidden talent was uncovered this day, though not enough to make any of us give up our day jobs to become professional bowlers.

Naturally, sufficient time was taken between games to sit, enjoy a refreshing drink and chat about the good, bad and downright quirky aspects of living in this country.

I have no idea if this alley gets very busy during the week.  It's certainly a nice venue for getting out of the house although, like most other recreational facilities in Riyadh, it doesn't open till 4pm.  For some reason Saudi doesn't think women like to do much before the late afternoon which, we decided is a bit sad for we expats ladies who prefer to be out and about before the husbands and kids are due home from work or school.  Anyway, we had a load of fun and decided, Strike Alley at The Ritz Carlton in Riyadh is a pleasant way to spend an afternoon with a group of friends.



Ka Kite,
Kiwi