Emotional Return to Riyadh's Computer Souq

What do you do whenever your computer decides NOT to do what it is supposed to do to?  I know what I do.  I close my eyes, droop my shoulders and heave a huge Oh No sigh usually followed by a mumbled 'Crap!' (or something similar).   A couple of weeks back I was 'Crapping' all over the place, again.  Repeated efforts to get the blank, black screen of my laptop to show any sign of life were useless and I resigned myself to admitting a return trip to one of Riyadh's computer souqs was required.  (You can read about my first trip to Riyadh's computer souq on that link, there).

This time I decided to venture to the souq on my own without Hubster in tow because he's been going through a bit of a negative phase and such states are best left at home!  Mr Noor dropped me at the souq and I wandered along the path looking for the first shop front that not only said 'Hewlett Packard' but also had Hewlett Packard computers in stock.  (I have come to learn that signs on shops do not always match content in said shop!)

Yes, says a bloke wearing faded black jeans and a once smart checkered shirt milling about by the doorway.
My HP computer is broken, I say.
Broken. Your computer broken. (I am still getting used to the repetitive nature of sales folk in this country).
Yes, I say.  My computer is broken.

Then the bloke gives that sign for 'Just wait'.  You know the one where, with palm facing upwards, you bring your thumb and fingers together like you're trying to imitate a a rose bud before it opens and ever so minutely waft it up and down.  That sign.

He then disappears out of the shop door.  I stand for a moment thinking something along the lines of 'What The?'  Then, because following instructions isn't my strongest suit and because I'm standing in the middle of a computer shop on my own with a bunch of staring eyed workers staring in my direction, I head towards the door Mr Milling Salesman just ran out of.  He's outside shouting and beckoning to some other bloke who is also wearing a checkered shirt and appears to be milling beside another doorway.  He only looks interested in Mr Salesman's gesticulations once I step out onto the path.  A few words are exchanged in a language I don't understand, then Mr Salesman waves me over to the other bloke who indicates I should follow him.  So, I do.

These are not the narrow, grubby stairs of the computer souq,
but they are the only stairs I have a picture of, so they will do.

He turns into a rather grubby looking, narrow staircase.  Grubby narrow staircases tend to make me nervous, possibly because I've watched too many mystery, fantasy and horror movies where those who walk into grotty corners either never walk out again or turn up changed somehow.   So I stalled at the bottom of said staircase and peered up into the dimly lit murk.  There wasn't much to see.  The bloke I was following turned and saw me stopped at the bottom of the stairs.  He beckoned me forward with an 'it's OK look'.   I lifted my abaya (tripping over it numerous times has taught me this) and started up the stairs thinking, 'I hope I'm not gonna regret this.'

The top of the stairs was a humming, happening place.  There were numerous little cubicle offices, some chock full of computers in various states of repair others with shelves presumably full of computer related parts.  Each office had a couple of blokes either working on computers, talking to customers about computers or gas bagging to each other.  There were even a couple of Saudi women up there with laptops in hand obviously negotiating repair prices.  Seeing ladies did help me relax a bit more.

Mr Staircase didn't speak much English, but his side kick did.   Discussions commenced in his office on the state of my laptop and it was determined that I needed a new battery.
'Would you like an original or a copy?'  he says.
'A copy?' I queried.  What is the difference?'  I ask cautiously.
'Copies are cheaper but no warranty',  he says, as if I should know that already.
'I'll take an original thanks.', I say and hand over the cash amount we finally settle on after ascertaining I can bring it back if it doesn't work properly.  He even gave a receipt...this may actually be a legit business!

On leaving his cubicle I stop for a moment to watch the activity in this hidden away level of the computer souq that I had no idea existed.  Here were people simply going about their computer repairing business and here was I realizing how tense the morning had made me with its low expectations, milling salesmen, language barriers and forbidding grubby stairs.  I contemplated for a moment all the thoughts that ran through my head that morning and the effect this city can have on people and concluded living here is almost akin to riding an emotional roller coaster.  I wonder what does it say about me or this place.



Ka Kite,
Kiwi

Riyadh's Computer Souq

There is a computer souq in Riyadh.  It's along Olaya Street near the Holiday Inn, or there abouts.  At least, that's where Mr Noor took us when we were in need of an updated version of software for the lap-top.

 Most people download their software direct from cyber space to computer.  We tried that, it didn't work.  When we sent a message to the "Help" service, they weren't much help.  Sending screeds of tech jargon via email to the technologically challenged is no assistance at all.  Not picking up a phone when we ring is equally useless.  Hence our trip to Riyadhs' computer souq. 

It wasn't quite what I expected, though I'm not really sure what I was expecting. 

I still live in the hope that I will turn up to a specialty store in Riyadh and find specialty service.  Someone who knows absolutely everything about the specialty I'm having difficulty with and can convey the information in a language that I can understand.  That would mean 'non-jargon' type language.  It also means English - pure, clear, unaccented English. 

Ok, so maybe a little bit of accent is OK, but when I have to say with a squinty frown, "Can you say that again?" it's oft because the accent is making the English words quite  incomprehensible.  (I only squint-frown when asking accent related questions because I presume it implies that I didn't understand a word being said!).

Choosing software is far too important not to be able to understand the bloke selling you the product.
Then I arrive at a place like the computer souq and remember - I'm in Riyadh.

There's not a technician in the place.  There's not a technician in any of the places.  At least, no one comes forth with a label mounted behind clear plastic identifying himself as a software wizard.

If you plan to go to this computer souq, come knowing exactly what you're looking for.  We gathered, quite quickly, that most of the men offering assistance in the stores have limited knowledge of the wares they are selling.  And what they do know, many can't communicate at any great length in English.

Those that knew a spot of English would grab a box from the nearest pile, not even having asked what we're looking for, and shove it in front of us with 'This one'.  If asked 'What does it do?' they would swivel their hand round and back like a washing machine, twisting at the wrist with the box held in their fingers, while garbling something unintelligible, ending with 'You take?'
'Ummmm.....No thanks'.
Moving on.

Others would see us coming into the shop and stare.
Nothing else.  Just stare.
Their reaction made me think white folk and women roaming through computer souqs in Riyadh was a rare treat!

Women can easily get annoyed by the eye popping in Riyadh and, on bad hair days, one is prone to respond with negative aggression.  It's usually a waste of energy.  The buggars just move off a ways and stare!   It's best to simply ignore staring men and focus on finding my software among the stacked boxes taking up most of the space on shop floors.

Hubster was ready to give up on our search for required software quite soon after arrival.  He puts up with enough fools at work (or so his daily tirades about fools at work has me believe) and tends to be rather terse when he meets clueless types on his afternoons off.  But the computer and internet are a very large part of my Riyadh life, so I had no intention of leaving till I'd found, and purchased, what I'd come for.

As Hubster was attempting dialogue in one shop, I wandered across the street to a place slightly detached from the rest and found a salesmen who seemed to have a clue and whose banjo sounding English required minimal deciphering.  (Or perhaps I had attuned my ears by this point).

Said salesman was also happy to talk to a female.
It's nice in a jungle of stary eyes to find someone 'normal'.

Hubster gets slightly annoyed that I wander off on our jaunts around Riyadh souqs but, being quite astute, I can very quickly pick up when people and places are wasting my time.  He is more of a bulldog.  He'd rather persist with questioning, chasing after answers that a salesman simply cannot give then, though getting annoyed with the lack of progress, pushing on expecting, almost willing, that soon the answer he seeks will materialize from frightened eyes and dry, nervous, non-English speaking lips.

I prefer to move on, and do.
He then gets upset that I'm not in protective view.
His paranoia of my kidnap from Riyadh streets is almost as irritating as his insistence on getting some sort of sense from sales folk who do not have a response to give.
I've told him he'd have more luck if he learnt their language.
He retorts with huffy, growly look!

Because of these unexpected, though in hindsight totally obvious, Riyadh-ian issues, our quick trip to the computer souq was rather longer than we had planned.  We left in the hope our purchase would do what the English writing on the outside and the excited nods and banjo plucking English of the guy in the shop said it would do.

(Hallelujah, it did!)

Location of the Riyadh Computer Souq

Hubster was adamant a return to the computer souq would not be on the cards in his Riyadh lifetime.  I'm not so quick to dismiss the place because, let's face it, help has still not arrived for the online software.  Neither has a refund!



Ka Kite,
Kiwi

Wedding Souq in Riyadh

It hadn't occurred to me that there would be a wedding souq in Riyadh, probably because I've had no reason to go in search of wedding paraphernalia.  As getting married seems to the be major life goal of most young women in Saudi Arabia, I shouldn't have been surprised such a souq existed.  Anyway, a Kiwi friend, Miss M, had a ball coming up and what better place to find a fancy dress for a glamorous occasion than at a wedding souq.  When Miss M asked me to tag along, describing with much enthusiasm the gowns that could be found at reasonable cost, me and my camera weren't about to stay at home.

Jessica's girls

It was obvious on entering the place that the clientele wandering through this souq probably didn't hail from the top notch of Saudi's elite.  This souq catered more to the mid-range crowd.  The wedding gowns are upstairs, but our first stop was looking at a few Jessica brands in a shop downstairs where some not so shy young men were happy to pose for photo's.

Jessica, so Miss M tells me, has designs that cater to the larger figure, which is helpful to know as I've been a member of the big girls gang for quite some time, with occasional forays into skinny land.  With a love of cakes, coffee and lots of cream, 'skinny' isn't how my hips and thighs like to spend a lot of their time!

The gowns weren't as gaudy as I presumed they would be given some of the over-the-top dresses we've come across at the Princess Souq, (and you can read about that in my Princess Souq post).

As Miss M also likes to sew her own clothes (this ball came upon her before she could organise a Do-It-Yourself job), she spent quite a bit of time looking under the more interesting dresses to see how they were put together.

Orange, or variations of, was quite popular the day we went.  I have to say, I'm quite partial to a burnt orange though not too sure about the mirror bodice.

A number of creations weren't really our cup of tea....

...though I did quite fancy this one because, apart from burnt orange, I'm also partial to various depths of purple.

While there was a lot of color among the gowns, there was a lot more white with various amounts of shimmer, ruffles, pearls, beads and lace.

We couldn't get over how Madonna-esque many of the bodices were with sharp pointy bits all over the place.  Not really very welcoming, but then perhaps keeping the groom at bay till the blushing bride is good and ready for him in this arranged marriage is the idea.

This gown was the most interesting.  Miss M had a good rummage under it's skirts.  We're still undecided if we really like it.

The wedding souq I visited with Mis M is in Makkah Mall, which for a long time I thought was called Mocha Mall because for the life of me I can't understand the words emanating from the lips of Miss M's driver!  Suffice to say when I wanted to return to the mall with Mrs B to show her what can be found at Riyadh's out of the way malls, it took some time for Mr Noor, my ever reliable taxi service, to figure out what I was talking about.

Mr Noor:  Mocha Mall? I don't know Mocha Mall.

Kiwi:  Perhaps I'll get you to talk to Miss M's driver, then he can tell you.

Mr Noor:  Are you sure it's Mocha Mall?

Kiwi:  No, Noor, I'm not sure.  I can't understand most of what he says, but that's what it sounds like when he says it.

Mr Noor:  Mocha Mall?  Mocha Mall...(thinking)

Kiwi:  It has a wedding souq in it.  We're going to look at wedding dresses.

Mr Noor: Wedding dress?  What's wedding dress?

Kiwi:  You know, ladies get married in them.  White dresses.  Fancy dresses.  For weddings.

Mr Noor:   Ohhh....I know a mall that ladies go to for nice lady clothes.  

Kiwi:  That's sounds like it Mr Noor.  Let's go there.

Mr Noor:  It's Makkah Mall, ma'am.  Not Mocha Mall (and he laughs).

Location of the Wedding Souq and Makkah Mall


There aren't just gowns at Riyadh's Makkah Mall wedding souq.  You can also order flowers and decorations and all the accessories required to make your special day fantabulous. The day Mrs B and I went a couple of blokes were busy putting together some beautiful floral arrangements. But the dresses take up most of the space upstairs and if you fancy looking at wedding gowns for the not so upper class in Riyadh, this souq is where you'll find them.

Ka Kite,
Kiwi

Cute Mammals And Tiger Skins

A new, and cute, mammal species has been discovered by scientists in the Andes.  The olinguito is a cross between a cat and a teddy bear, which does sound kinda cute.   You can read more about its discovery on NBC News "Cutest new animal' discovered: It's an olinguito!"

It's nice to know we can still discover things on this planet.  Lets just hope the newly discovered critter survives.  The Andes has issues with illegal poaching.  A new critter is likely to make the human nutcases out there think 'I want me one of those!'

Which reminds me of a trip to Deira Souq one day.  A group of we women decided to go for a spot of shopping and while perusing a tucked away shop that sold antiques we came across a tiger skin hanging up in a wrinkled plastic dry cleaners bag.  'Is it real?', one of the ladies asked.  Yes of course, said the bloke in situ and took the skin out of the bag for her to take a look.  It was real.

It wasn't a professionally tanned hide.  In fact, it reminded me of the possum skin jacket that Hubster made for himself when he was a youngster. (In NZ possums are pests and new ways are constantly devised for getting rid of them.  Visit Ms Possum to see how she designs possum pelts).

My two friends and I walked away from the tiger skin.  Something to do with 'Where did it come from?' and 'Illegal hunting'  came up in our conversation.  But one woman in our group loved the tiger skin.  And although we looked on disapprovingly she said, 'It's already dead, so it doesn't matter'.
Yes, but if you buy that, then another one will die, won't it.
But my husband will love it.  And it's already dead.
We walked further away.
Here's hoping she and her husband don't hear about this cute new mammal discovery else it may be in serious jeopardy!

Ka Kite,
Kiwi

Let's Have Stuffed Pigeon For Lunch.

It's not often I get invited to eat stuffed pigeon for lunch. The day the invitation was extended I was slightly hesitant. Exactly which kind of pigeon were we talking about?  In my mind there are only 2 types of pigeons. (I'm sure a pigeon expert could rattle off numerous varieties of pigeons that exist but that doesn't mean My Mind would be any better off for the effort).

Kiwi Wood Pigeon

In New Zealand we have Kereru, the Maori name for our Wood Pigeon, a colorful, berry eating and endangered bird protected under the Wildlife Act. (As a heads up, should your neighbor tell you he has a footless chicken in the freezer he means illegally caught pigeon!).

Pigeons on a local Riyadh farm

The other type of pigeon tends to generate visions of annoying, feral, ledge perching, pooping machines - not an appetizing thought!  

It turns out the latter version is the one on the lunch menu today, though I shouldn't think so negatively about pigeons.  According this website, Deterapigeon, pigeons have been an important part of human existence for centuries, only becoming much maligned in recent times.   Humankind has also been eating pigeons for more than a few years.

Hamam Mahshi, as the dish is locally known, isn't uncommon in these parts. Googling 'Stuffed Pigeon' brings up about 2,440,000 results, in 0.29 seconds, mostly of recipes.  The Apple and Raisin stuffing sounded deliciously sweet while the Roasted Morrocan style filled with couscous made my mouth water.  Apparently, the more traditional method is to stuff the pigeon with Freekah, a cereal used in many dishes throughout the Middle East.

It isn't necessary to chase your pigeon through the park to catch it either.  For the raw materials simply head to the Pet Souq on Riyadh's outskirts and you'll find plenty of caged pigeons for sale, though they are still alive which means someone will have to kill the bird in order for you to stuff it.

If popping off pigeons isn't your thing but you'd still like to tick 'I ate pigeon in Saudi Arabia' off your bucket list, then the Mirage restaurant in Takasussi St is known to have pigeon on the menu.  Our pigeon meal was delivered to our door, wrapped in tin foil.  It was surprisingly nice, though it's easy to see why the bird has to be stuffed.  Without all that extra filling they are rather scrawny!

If you've ever been a pooped on by a pigeon and retribution is in your nature, perhaps this could be payback - put stuffed pigeon on your dinner plate tonight.



Ka Kite,
Kiwi

Princess Souq

We went to the Princess Souq this morning.
I doubt a princess has ever actually set foot in the Princess Souq.  The name is rumored to derive from the many dresses you can find at this market, supposedly the cast off clothes of Saudi royalty.

The Princess Souq makes up a small part of the Second Hand Souq which itself is a huge area that can be found down Bat'ha way.  Bat'ha in Riyadh is akin to Otara in Auckland a few years back.  This should give you an idea of what the Princess Souq is.  One rather large canvas covered, tattered carpeted bargain bin for second-hand clothes.

Photo credit: Canandian In Riyadh

You can find clothing for all ages at the Princess Souq.  Children's clothing can be purchased very cheaply as can second-hand abayas, though finding one complete with matching headscarf can be a real chore if not nigh impossible.   The large desert coats can be found here too.  Before we leave the country we'll be back to the souq sussing one out to take home.

Many expat women go the Princess Souq for the dresses.  There are racks and racks of dresses.  Some are beautiful.  Others are spectacular in an over beaded and bauble exaggerated way.  You could spend hours sifting through the masses hanging on the racks marveling at, and commenting on, just what exactly dress designers were thinking when they threw so much decoration on a dress.

I prefer visiting the souq in the morning - there tend to be less people about so you can browse in a more leisurely manner and, more importantly, there is plenty of light.  Evenings are a bit dingy and very crowded at the Princess Souq.

As well as looking at the clothing one should always be on the lookout for Desperate & Disgusting dirty men.  They will follow you about, attempting to rub up against or grope at you.  It is recommended to go with friends to the Princess Souq (or a male if you have one willing to accompany you) but you and your companions should remember not to clog up the alleyways.  The Desperate &  Disgusting think a path full of expat women is a perfect time to walk down the aisle and and will grope at the nearest butt on their way past.  The nice men (and I have to say there are a number of these to be found) usually say 'excuse me' from a gentlemanly distance allowing you to move aside so they can pass.

Also beware of streaming which is only likely to happen where larger groups of the D&D's go shopping.  That's when a group of D&D males will form two lines forcing women to walk between them.  Groping of major proportions goes on for the trapped females as the men stream past.

If you find yourself being followed by just one sleeze ball type at the Princess Souq and you have no intention of letting the varmint upset your day it pays to take action.   Ignoring these types is a bad idea as the creepy crawly grapevine tends to spread word of innocent, unaware expat shoppers and soon slugs aplenty start hanging around.

So, attract the attention of one of the shopkeepers who will usually chase the D&D away.  Either that or stare the dirty blighter down so he knows that you know what he has in mind - he'll usually scurry off then.   A well chosen swear word spat with as much venom and as much volume as you're comfortable displaying is also a good option at this point.  Not exactly lady like behavior at the so-called Princess Souq but reasonable given the circumstance.

Princess Souq location:
Princess Souq is located in the south west corner of the Second Hand Souq (know in Arabic as Haraj) which itself is located in the Manfuha area in south east Riyadh. I usually take King Fahad Road, turn on to the Southern Ring Road then go off at Al Batha Road.  You will see Haraj on your left and will have to U-turn further up Al Batha Road to come back to it.  Then weave your way through the masses of house ware and furniture to find the clothes that make up Princess Souq - good luck!


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Ka Kite,
Kiwi

The Pet Souq in Riyadh

There's a  Pet Souq in Riyadh.
Watching Rosella's winging their way across a blue sky the other day reminded me of it.

Hubster and I went to the Riyadh Pet Souq after much pestering by me.  He wasn't all that keen to go.  Mr Noor had taken him to the Pet Souq three or so years previously to find a talking parrot to keep him company because I wasn't here.  (I'm not sure what that says about me).  The parrot was suggested because Hubster wasn't so keen on the Pakistani taxi fraternity's first idea for easing his loneliness - get a new wife. 

The talking parrots speak Arabic.

Glenn told me stories of baby gorillas in chains at the Pet Souq and powerful animal pee smell rising from the hot animal crap steaming on the ground outside.  I was expecting the worst.

It wasn't that bad.  The Pet Souq has been cleaned up.  Hubster was pleasantly surprised with the effort.

The Pet Souq is south along Al Hair road.  My trusty camera had run out of battery so my trusty phone was called to sneak the photo's.  I'd heard the folks at the pet souq weren't keen on photography - that turned out to be a load of cods wallop (aka - not true).

The Pet Souq is basically a number of shops housed under one roof mostly selling various birds, fish, cats, rabbits and puppies.  Though many of the animals for sale are of the 'take home as a pet' variety I'm fairly certain most of the birds purchased from the Riyadh Pet Souq are destined for the crock pot or the chook house.  Quails, ducks, geese and hens can be found indoors.

Out the back in another area with more birds of various sizes and ages.  Some were so young they were being dropper feed some concoction which we were assured was good for the birds...

...and a couple of long legged baby beauty's were proudly displayed for us that we think were ostriches.

There are a few stalls set up outside the main building selling trinkets, one guy with a few monkeys whose happiness looked questionable (the monkeys, not the guy) given they were squashed into a cage and on sale to this western couple for 600SAR each (we declined)...

Most fascinating were the number of sizable desert lizards.  Given that our forays into the Saudi desert are usually at a rapid vehicular pace or with extremely large groups of expats making lots of noise this would be the only time I would see, or touch, a desert lizard.  They were piled over each other in wire cages and, from memory, were on sale for 25SAR each, destined to be somebody's delectable dinner. 

 There is, so I've heard, a tearoom type facility not far away where the bedouin blokes get together to show off their Master Chef lizard cooking skills.  I'd like to send Hubster along with a camera and an empty stomach.  He isn't so keen.
 

If you're looking for cheap pets this is where you'll find them.  If you're looking for happy animals receiving the highest quality care - well, perhaps the Pet Souq in Riyadh is not the place to go.

Location of Riyadh's Pet Souq
Riyadh Pet Souq Co-ordinates: 24 35.2’ N; 46 44.6’ E

View Kiwi In Saudi: Tiki Tour in a larger map



Ka Kite,
Kiwi