There aren't many places in Riyadh where women can go bowling when the urge strikes.  A couple of the larger compounds have bowling alleys, but if don't know anyone to let you in, then those locations are off limits.  Previously, there were only two non-compound bowling alleys where women could bowl in Riyadh.  One was in UBC, just off Al Maadha St that we have been to a few times.  The other was at Al Khozarma Hotel whose alley we haven't tried yet, largely because you need to book out the the whole place to use it.  Not so long ago, a group of friends decided we would try the new arrival to Riyadh's bowling scene - the Ritz Carlton's Strike Alley.

As this was a ladies only outing, we rang to find out what days women are allowed (Tuesdays and Saturdays are women only) and then planned a visit.   Apparently there is a family day for bowling at the Ritz but I forgot to ask which day that was.

Getting to the bowling alley required first having coffee and cake.  Unfortunately, the Riyadh Ritz High Tea left a lot to be desired.  We were very impressed, however, when we walked into their bowling alley.  It's a large, spacious area with floor to ceiling photo's of bowling pins, just in case you don't get the fact it's a bowling alley.  There's a dry-bar at the back (which means no alcohol given this is Saudi Arabia) where you can order snacks and drinks, and there is sufficient space between the bar and the lanes to sit and relax in the plush armchairs.  If you get sick of bowling there's also a billiard table and a TV.

 There are six lanes all together and on a weekday afternoon, there was only one other lane being used by a couple of Saudi girls.  Being the ladies only time, abaya's were quickly removed so we could get down to bowling business.  A lot of hidden talent was uncovered this day, though not enough to make any of us give up our day jobs to become professional bowlers.

Naturally, sufficient time was taken between games to sit, enjoy a refreshing drink and chat about the good, bad and downright quirky aspects of living in this country.

I have no idea if this alley gets very busy during the week.  It's certainly a nice venue for getting out of the house although, like most other recreational facilities in Riyadh, it doesn't open till 4pm.  For some reason Saudi doesn't think women like to do much before the late afternoon which, we decided is a bit sad for we expats ladies who prefer to be out and about before the husbands and kids are due home from work or school.  Anyway, we had a load of fun and decided, Strike Alley at The Ritz Carlton in Riyadh is a pleasant way to spend an afternoon with a group of friends.

Ka Kite,

For a place that frowns on music in public, there sure is a lot of it around in private!  Ladies shake their booties to the latest beats at weddings.  Musicians are hired to back up crooning singers at private parties.  And the occasional hotel hires those self-playing piano's to provide background music as their guests dine.  Yes, there is a lot of music in this country supposedly devoid of it.  And I intend to add to the mix by buying a piano from a music shop here in Riyadh.  Well, actually it's more like an electronic keyboard than a piano.  But it makes piano sounds, so I'm calling it a piano!

This urge to buy a piano was reached after our friend bought her lovely self playing baby grand (you can pick one up from the music store in Akaria Mall if you're looking), and every now and then when I pass it in her lounge I lift the lid and press a key or two.  Ahhh...I love the sound of a piano.  Unfortunately my piano playing skills suck, every so slightly, so the lid is closed quick smart as I move on through to the kitchen for coffee, dreaming about what could have been.

You see, my parents determined, way back in my childhood, that I should take piano lessons.  My father was a self-taught piano player and I guess my parents figured that I, along with my two older brothers, could do with some cultural input - hence a piano teacher was engaged.  Mrs W (I can't actually remember her name, isn't that terrible, so Mrs W willl do), was an elder woman with fading reddish, coiffed hair, a pale powdered face and orange lipstick, and she would sit beside me each week as I tickled the piano keys.  Unfortunately, on the days she wasn't there, not much key tickling took place at all no matter how much my mother tried to cajole me into my piano practice.  So, after a few months, Mrs W suggested my parents money could be better spent elsewhere than on me and the piano.  There ended piano lessons.

Perhaps if she'd stuck with me she would have realized I quite like the piano.  Yes, I had a lazy left hand - but I was a kid!  How am I supposed to know my left hand needs attention.  Shouldn't the teacher have loved my left hand, coaxed it, encouraged it, been patient with it.  Maybe she had visions of concert pianist grandeur and I proved to be way off the mark.  Who knows.

Looking back I don't think I deserved to be given up on.  Imagine the emotional trauma I must have gone through being told, at 10 years of age (or thereabouts), that you're piano teacher has dumped you. (In truth when Mum passed on that news I think my response was more like, 'Really?  Can I go out and play now?  Woohoo!' but I was young and probably didn't fully understand the repercussions that being unceremoniously let go would have on my adult self in later years.....if you give me some time, I'm sure I can think up a few issues related to the occasion!...Ummmm, no.  Moving on.)

Anyway, my parents later discovered that my younger sister was, I have to say, a much better student than the rest of us.  And when, years later still, our youngest daughter said she'd like piano lessons, we borrowed a dear old aunts piano, found a tutor and it turns out the lazy left hand fell a mile away from the tree.  Killa has an electronic keyboard at her place, and we love to sit and hear her play when we visit.  (Occasionally I'll sit and hash over a few of her music sheets, for old times sake, but lets face it, I'm rusty!)  And Dad still plays, though with his Alzheimer's affliction the music can be somewhat random!

The upshot of all this is I quite like the sound of piano.
So I'm going to buy me one.
From the music shop in Riyadh.
As we live in a small one bedroom apartment, as much as I'd like a a self-playing baby grand, space dictates I get a smaller piano, hence the electronic keyboard.  I've already sussed out a piano teacher too should I decide teaching myself isn't achieving awesome results.  And I'm  having words with my left hand!

Ka Kite,

View to Tiran Island from the hotel
For the past week I've been in Sharm-el-Sheikh.  It was my first visit and it's a lovely place.  The Red Sea is beautiful whether you look at it from the shore or dive into it off the jetties that jut out in front of the many seaside resorts or from one of the boating operations that will take you on snorkeling or scuba trips.  You can almost forget that there are issues in Egypt while swanning around this place.

My invitation to Sharm was from a Saudi women whose husband was not happy that she would be travelling to Egypt because, one, Egypt is dangerous, and two, she'd be travelling alone.  I was her compromise - the role model companion who would keep her out of trouble.  Uh huh!

We landed on a blue sky beautiful day and within half an hour were at our hotel.  Everything was ticking along nicely and then I got a lesson in why Saudi people are not particularly loved in other Gulf countries as tourists.  It took us nine hours, yes nine hours, to find a room in a hotel my companion was happy with.  Nine!  We traipsed from room to room in two hotels, (she checked us out of the first one while I was out trying to find an internet connection) each one dismissed for various reasons - too dirty, too old, no view, too much view, too far apart from each other, only one bathroom for two people, too smelly, too small...and on it went.  By 10p.m. I was exhausted.  She told me she and her sister do this every time they go on holiday.  They basically kick up a stink and make demands until they get the best possible deal they can.  I tell ya, though I wasn't really that impressed with the carry on, the room I got in the end was fab!

Beach Cabana's in front of the hotel
She was actually going to Sharm for a tourism workshop and we decided there would be no harm in me just tagging along because the topic was internet marketing strategies which sounded kind of interesting to me.  She pulled the plug on the workshop within an hour of our arrival to the conference center because the bloke in charge insulted her (I have no idea what he said because I can't keep up with heated Arabic debates), so she decided to focus on the second reason for the trip - networking with tour operators and hotels.  So, we met a few marketing peeps, and spoke with a load of operating types about how they could cater to our target market.  Plus we went out on few trips to assess their professionalism and so we could provide hands-on feedback to future clients.  It turns out the tour operators in Sharm have quite smooth operations.  We were both surprised.

I had no idea Sharm-el-Sheikh was such a touristy spot, nor how many resorts are stretched along it's coastline.  There's a whole bunch of water based activities you can do from snorkeling to kite surfing, there are bars and nightclubs and loads of spas if you fancy some body pampering.  And of course you can sunbathe to your hearts content in your skimpiest bikini (and nope, I don't have one of those).

Beads at the Old Market
From my observations there are a few distinct areas for hanging out .   Naama Bay is the happening hotspot where you can sit out on the street in an open sheesha cafe of an evening and enjoy the vibe.   Hadaba is a quiet spot for enjoying the sunset from a cliff top seat.  The Old Market has that small vendor bargaining ambiance that you expect from an Egyptian market and it also has some tasty places to eat, while Soho Square is your upmarket shopping and entertainment area.  Nabq is a little further up the coast and struck me as the place for rich peeps to hang out.  Given we were only there for 10 minutes, this impression may have been completely wrong.

Snorkelers out near Tiran
And then of course you have the ocean.  Ras Mohammad which has been designated a national park marine reserve is a great draw card for divers and snorkelers.  We went out on two boat trips while in Sharm.  The VIP Ras Mohammad and the VIP Tiran.  We had to see what each had to offer, didn't we and, naturally, Saudi women would only want VIP treatment.  Both were well run.  My friend preferred the boat trip to Ras Mohammad because it's slightly closer to reach.  Personally, I preferred Tiran because more of the coral is alive, hence there is more fish, and not only is the water deeper but it's a beautiful color.  It's also the trip where we saw a load of dolphins.

I asked if there were any culture and history tours in Sharm.  For the culture we were directed to Alf Leila Wa Leil or 1001 Nights Arabian Show and Dinner.  The place is huge and has with a beautiful water featured entrance walk.  Through the doors is an inner courtyard with souvenir shops and seating around a central stage for one of the night shows.  Our dinner was in the Moroccan restaurant and included belly dancing and a snake charmer show.  Further on from here is the amphitheater with huge replica's of Egyptian monuments used a backdrop for the sound and light show and an arena for the horse show.  The only draw back is the shows run from 10p.m. - 1a.m., so if you are usually an early sleeper, get in a sly afternoon nap so you can stay awake for the night.

Memorial to Flight 604
In terms of history tours, I was informed there is no history in Sharm.
Righty ho then.
Someone ought to Google on Wikipedia!
The only tour of any historical context is to Saint Katrine.  We didn't do this tour but it sounds interesting given it's in the mountains and the information regarding the Monastery dates back to Roman times and, of course, it sits at the base of Mt Sinai.  The only local history information I received was when our taxi driver stopped beside the memorial to the passengers lost on Flight 604, and when he pointed out the now empty buildings on a hill top that the Israeli's occupied during one of their takeovers of the country.  All other conversations on the history and development of Sharm-El-Sheik were peppered with the word 'corruption'.

New mosque in the Old Town seen from the water.
Perhaps I've been in Saudi too long, but I thought Sharm gave the impression of snubbing its nose at the rest of Egypt.  Although tourism numbers are down slightly, (50% according to the hotel we stayed at), due to Egypts issues, numerous Western and European tourists roam the streets in their shorty shorts and sexy tops that barely hide the bikini's beneath.  If it weren't for the many police check-points along the roads, you wouldn't think you were in an Arab country where the majority of the people are Muslim.  I managed to console myself on the issue (it didn't take long) by deciding a couple of things - the Egyptian economy needs tourism right now, and Sharm has obviously been developed to cater to the needs of one of the country's minority religous groups.

I have to say, Sharm appealed to me more than Bahrain or Dubai do.  Perhaps it's because the ocean is so near, perhaps it's because the local people we came across are so pleasant and professional, or maybe it's the normal-ness of the place.  Whatever the reason, I liked Sharm-El-Sheikh.  I liked it a lot.

Ka Kite,

Late yesterday afternoon I was winding my way home on foot, crossing roads through bumper to bumper traffic and trigger finger horn tooters when I looked up and saw the sunset.

It painted the clouds in a beautiful range of pinks and greys.  I thought what a stunning photograph this sky would make as it backdropped against the man made metal street lamps, hectic vehicles and people rushing with their hands full of grocery bags recently filled at the nearby supermarket. 

So taken was I with the sunset that I sat down to pull out my Nikon and capture the moment, but by the time I had my camera in my hands the sky had already changed, the bright pinks deepening, the greys beginning to turn black and yellow was starting to filter through the clouds. Two things occurred to me as I contemplated whether I should still try to capture this sky - how quickly the sunset can change and how long it has been since I have watched the sun set. 

So, in that busy street in the center of Riyadh with its hustle and bustle I set aside my camera and watched the sky.  

At that moment the call to Salah hummed its way through the air and men headed from their busy walking path toward the nearby mosque.  I couldn't help but wonder how many would take the time to watch the miracle and beauty of a changing sky before arriving for their prayer.  If they are looking for a greater power, they might find her there.

I get a few emails from peeps who aren't sure what to call me.  Is my name Ka? Is it Kite?  Is it Ka Kite or Kiwi?  Well, in fact it's none of the above.  Here, for those of you who may want to know, is an explanation of the signature at the end of my posts:

Ka Kite,

It's quite simple really.
Ka Kite is a Maori term that translates to 'See Ya'.
And Kiwi is the pseudonym I've adopted for this blog because living in Saudi Arabia one doesn't really want to advertise ones real name on a blog!

For those of you who aren't aware, because you haven't read my About Me page, I hail from a little country at the bottom of the world called New Zealand.  New Zealander's are often referred to as Kiwi's after our native, flightless bird.  Though, with so many of us travelling and living overseas these days, flightless is one thing our people are not!

So I am a Kiwi.
And that's really all there is to it.
See ya :)

Ka Kite,

Madam Lily has gone, which is a shame because I quite liked Madam Lily.  Though her time in Saudi was short, she did leave an impression on those of us who waved her good bye not so long ago.  Perhaps one day she'll write  a little post about her experience here and share it on my blog (fingers crossed!) One of the things we loved about Madam Lily was the way she dealt with people and situations she felt weren't up to standard.  We usually got to see her in action when it came to coffee shops and restaurants.  The Ritz Carlton High Tea got a complete thumbs down from Madam Lily (and the rest of our group for that matter) when we went there late last year.

Our group of six didn't actually go to the Riyadh Ritz for High Tea.  Nope, we went for bowling, but as we'd arrived too early for the alley to be open, we decided to have a coffee.  High Tea was suggested by the staff.  We figured, why not spoil ourselves a little?  Oh, how we regretted that decision.

We sat outdoors, chatting beneath some lovely ancient looking trees while waiting expectantly for our treat.  Eventually three tea pots - 3 very small teapots - were soon placed on the table and their arrival caused a little confusion.  We looked at the pots, at each other, then at the wait staff wondering where the rest of the tea was.  Apparently this was it.  One tiny pot to be shared by two women.   Really?  Seriously?  Madam Lily was not impressed and we could see her warming up to take someone down.  More tea pots were asked for, a request that sent the staff into a bit of a spin.  You do get used to staff going into spins when asked for something out of the usual.  I guess 1 pot per person was unusual at the Ritz.

The food, when it arrived some time after our mini-tea pots, looked quite nice and we each chose a dainty piece to try.  Oh, how disappointed we were.  Bread was stale, the scones were tiny and hard, the jam made up of strawberries in a runny sauce just didn't work, and the German bread was moldy.  We  sat there testing, tasting, screwing up our noses and commenting in that way that ladies do when we are trying to decide how best to deal with the situation without seeming like snotty bitches.  When the staff asked if everything was OK, well, we just had to let them know what we thought and Madam Lily was firing on all cylinders with feedback delivered in that positive, yet firm, Madam Lily way.  

Here is Madam Lily's opinion of High Tea at the Riyadh Ritz:
"Considering that we are discussing afternoon tea at a five star hotel, the setting is gorgeous - an oasis garden with comfortable seating for 6 under beautiful mature trees.  The silver service with linen napkins and place mats is lovely and set us up to expect a wonderful tea.  
But the food - None of the ladies oooohed or aaaahed when the food arrived.  There was silence.  When we made a choice of what to eat it was done rather reluctantly.  I chose a circle of white bread with a large shrimp atop adorned with a gloup of pinkish sauce.  After my first timid bite I discovered that the bread was old and stale and hard.  I removed the shrimp and, after scraping off the mystery sauce, ate and enjoyed the shrimp.  I wasn't willing to try any more of the savories but did try  a small piece of Louise Slice.  It was nice and tasted homemade.  After that, I stopped while I was ahead as the ladies weren't happy. 
The tea itself (I had white) was lovely but was served well ahead of the actual 'tea' and one small pot was meant to serve two ladies.  Pathetic really.  They need to upsize the tea pots or provide a pot per person.  The small brownish scones were served with side condiments of custard, 3 halved strawberries in a sugar sauce semi cooked and cream that was left untouched as it looked like it was near butter….and speaking of butter….there was none.  I've never had a scone without butter - it just seems wrong.
The Ritz gets a score of 2 out of 10 from me and I feel that's generous.  There is no excuse for the quality of food that we were served and the processed cheese and stale bread really offended."  

Though the staff were attentive and accommodating and wanted to please, this was beyond their control and apologies from them were many.  We acknowledged that it wasn't the wait staffs fault, and they handled the situation quite well, deferring to someone slightly higher up the food chain.

One of them ran off to get us some fresh food.  The offering they returned with was cheese and tomato sandwiches (and plastic, processed cheese at that) obviously whacked together in a hurry, kind of like the sandwiches you make at home when you come in starving after a few hours gardening and just want something to wolf down.

The Ritz Calton High Tea in Riyadh was such a disappointment food wise and I have been loathe to recommend the place for their High Tea since.  However, I like to give people and places second chances, so one day I will rally the ladies to give high tea another go.  Just not today.

Ka Kite,